Category Archives: Patterns

Making a pencil skirt sloper

Have you EVER owned a pencil skirt that fit you properly?  I find the ready to wear either gape in the waist, or are too tight across the hip or thigh or the darts aren’t right.  I guess perhaps my waist to hip ratio does not match the ideal hourglass figure.  Neither is my widest point in the regular hip – I am a true pear with my thighs wider than my hips.

Now that I can sew (a little) I thought it was about time I tried to rectify this with my own pencil skirt.  But buying a pattern would not solve the problems and would require so many alterations and I don’t know how to do this to get a good fit.  So drafting my own pattern from scratch seemed to be the way to go.

I found a brilliant description of how to take your measurements and draft a pencil skirt basic pattern sloper here.

It starts with photos of how and where to measure and takes you step by step through constructing your very own pattern for a skirt based on your own measurements.  There are recommendations for ‘ease’ so that the skirt isn’t skin tight!  It took me a couple of hours after I went wrong once and had to start again, but at the end I had a pattern all of my very own.

REMEMBER TO ADD YOUR SEAM ALLOWANCE.
But I’m still very new to this – would it work?  I had to test it right away, and I grabbed some navy blue satin from my stash.  So far, I’ve only ever bought remnant pieces, never anything from the roll, because I still don’t trust myself to make something worth wearing and would hate to waste the fabric (and the money) if it turned out wrong.

So I carefully cut and marked my skirt, stitched the darts, and pinned for a first fit.  Not bad !  But hard to really tell without sewing it all together.  Ah – and it was here I forgot that I was running before I could walk, and of course a pencil skirt in a woven fabric needs a zipper – and I don’t have a zipper foot and can’t buy one here in the Cayman Islands.  Damn it.

So, the pattern and the fabric has been carefully folded and labelled and put away in a zip loc bag ready for the heavenly day I can continue on these ‘zipper needed’ projects.  One day (soon) I’ll return to this project and reference this post and hope to show my perfectly fitting pencil skirt.

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